Using a Moka Pot and French Press Safely

Two tools, two principles

The moka pot and the French press are often mentioned together because both make strong coffee without a paper filter, but they work in nearly opposite ways. A moka pot heats water in its bottom chamber until steam pressure pushes hot water up through the coffee in the middle basket. It produces a strong, heavy coffee in a short time and is often used as the base for milk drinks. It does not reach the pressure of an espresso machine, though, so the taste and texture differ from true espresso. A French press simply soaks the grounds in hot water and then pushes them to the bottom with a metal mesh plunger. Oils and fine particles pass into the cup, giving it a thick, heavy body. Both involve hot water and heat, so learn the safety habits along with the method.

Setting up a moka pot

A moka pot has three parts: the bottom chamber for water, a funnel-shaped basket for the grounds, and the top chamber where coffee collects. Taste and safety are mostly decided during setup, so follow the order.

• Fill the bottom chamber with water below the safety valve; a submerged valve cannot do its job
• Grind finer than for pour-over but coarser than for espresso, about like fine salt
• Heap the grounds into the basket and level the top with a finger; do not press them down
• Brush grounds off the basket rim and threads, then screw the halves together firmly

Brewing with a moka pot

Medium-low heat is the rule. On high heat the water boils too fast, the coffee turns bitter and burnt, and flames can reach the handle and damage it or make it hot. If the burner is wider than the pot, turn the flame down so it does not spread past the base. When the dark brown stream turns pale and a sputtering, hissing sound begins, take the pot off the heat immediately. Leave it on and the bitter, astringent tail end ends up in your cup. Starting with hot water in the bottom chamber shortens the time on the burner so the grounds do not cook and the taste stays clean, but the chamber will already be hot, so wrap it in a dry towel when you assemble it.

Using a French press

A French press is easy: stick to a ratio and a time and almost anyone gets a similar result. About 1 part coffee to 12 to 16 parts water by weight is a common starting point. Grind coarse, like kosher salt, so grounds do not slip through the mesh. Water just off the boil, cooled for a moment, works well.

• Warm the empty carafe with hot water, then pour that water out
• Add the coarse grounds and pour in about half the water to wet them evenly
• After about 30 seconds add the rest, put the lid on and wait about 4 minutes
• Gently skim or stir the crust of grounds on top, then press the plunger slowly all the way down
• Pour all of the coffee into cups or another container right away

Fixing the taste

With either tool, change one thing at a time so you know what made the difference. If moka pot coffee is very bitter and burnt, lower the heat, take it off earlier before the sputtering starts, and try a slightly coarser grind. If it is sour and thin, grind a little finer or make sure the basket was filled to the top. If French press coffee is muddy and astringent, grind coarser and shorten the steep; if it is weak and sour, steep a little longer or use more coffee. Coffee left sitting on the grounds keeps getting more bitter, so pour it off as soon as you press.

Preventing burns and pressure accidents

Accidents with both tools usually happen when you rush or use force. A moka pot is especially tricky because the whole metal body gets very hot and pressure can remain inside, so taking it apart right after brewing is the riskiest moment.

• Do not open a moka pot until it has cooled enough; if you are in a hurry, cool only the bottom chamber under cold water
• If it keeps boiling but no coffee comes out, turn off the heat, let it cool and check for a blockage; never open it hot
• Hold only the handle, not the body, and keep the handle turned away from the flame
• Never force a French press plunger; if it sticks, lift it slightly and press again slowly
• Warm a glass carafe before adding boiling water instead of pouring it into a cold one, and stop using one that is cracked

Cleaning and care

Once a moka pot has cooled completely, take it apart, knock out the grounds, rinse it with water and let it dry. Aluminum models can discolor with detergent or in a dishwasher, so follow the manufacturer's instructions. The rubber gasket between the chambers and the metal filter plate under the basket wear out; replace the gasket when it hardens, cracks or lets steam escape from the side. Check now and then that the safety valve is free of grounds and scale. Take the French press plunger apart to wash out trapped grounds and oil, or the next brew will pick up stale flavors. Do not wash spent grounds down the sink, where they easily clog the drain; strain them out and throw them away.

Which one suits you

If you often drink strong lattes and like a heavy, intense taste, a moka pot is a good fit. You have to stand by the stove for a few minutes, but one small tool gives you strong coffee quickly. If you brew several cups at once or want to taste the sweetness and heavy texture of the beans, a French press is convenient: just boil water and do something else while it steeps. One thing worth knowing is that coffee brewed without a paper filter is known to retain more of the oily compounds that can affect blood cholesterol levels. If you are managing your lipid levels, talk to your doctor about how much to drink, and consider passing the coffee through a paper filter.